Our 'one year' opportunity to fulfil a dream of living by the sea has given rise to "we can't possibly leave yet, let's stay a little longer". It doesn't make much sense to live in one state and work in another but then again we often end up doing things a little differently.
The familiar boardwalk to Kings Beach was lined with people and cameras this morning. Sunny blue skies and warm weather accompanied by an excitement and uncontained buzz, “effing unbelievable” was the conclusion. The massive surf closed the beach to swimmers but the board riders were in their element. Kings beach became the playground for the competent and the wannabees. But the real action was right of The Groin and a fair way out. Here the thrill seekers and risk takers and those who really know how to ride a board pitted themselves against some of the biggest waves we have seen on this part of the coast. And right out the back jet ski’s were towing the bravest and perhaps the more foolhardy onto the mountainous crashing waves.
There was plenty of commentary from the bench, lots of oohs and aahs as surfers were smashed, chewed up like match sticks and spat out into the turbulent swirling white water. There were cheers when they managed to stay upright, descending the 15 foot drop down the face of the waves or exiting the barrels unscathed. There was appreciation for courage and skill and free entertainment.
No one was in a hurry to leave, where else would you rather be…